Wanderführer ist Uwe Heitkamp (Journalist, 49). Er lebt seit 20 Jahren in Portugal. Er ist Gründer der mehr­sprachigen Wochenzeitung www.algarve123.com

The Via Algarviana starts at the frontier between Spain and Portugal, in Alcoutim, and is the most impressive walking trail in southern Europe. On the Andalusia/Algarve border, delineated by the River Guadiana, you’ll find the borough of Alcoutim nestling sleepily on the Portuguese side. There you can eat extremely well, relax comfortably, and follow the water-course which runs into the Atlantic Ocean some 50 kilometres (about 30 miles) to the south.

From here, a trail winds through verdant hills and valleys, across streams and into rural hamlets lost in time. Far away from the concrete jungle to the south which is much-loved by the average tourist. This trail is what we follow: for about 25 kilometres (about 15 miles) every day. We walk through tiny villages where traditional agriculture is still very much in evidence. And if your legs start to stiffen in protest, it’s because we’re not very far from the next overnight hostelry. A manageable distance every day, from a total of around 340 kilometres (about 215 miles). But this trail isn’t for the faint-hearted: you must have done some walking before, and possess appropriate boots – especially for the uphill stretches in the steep hills. By the time we arrive at Cape St. Vincent, the south-westernmost point of mainland Europe, where the Atlantic waves crash against the cliffs, we’ll have walked for 13 or 14 days. This is where the Via Algarviana ends. By the sea. At the beach. Intrigued? Then read on.

WALKING IN THE ALGARVE. GO WEST!

In Portugal, things always take just that little bit longer. Rather like The Sleeping Beauty. But sometimes that’s actually a good thing. Today, after twelve years of planning, this long trail is almost fully signposted – although some walkers still manage to get themselves lost on the way... It could be that hunters have removed the signs, or put them in different places just to confuse us, or that they’ve simply turned the marker stones to face another direction. Quite recently, a couple of Texans tried to follow the Via Algarviana and weren’t at all impressed about walking in circles for two whole days... They completed the route by bus. Unfortunately for all concerned, the hunter is the natural enemy of of the walker in Portugal. So it’s a good thing that during the breeding season (from January to June), hunters may not shoot in the countryside and are prevented from hunting by law. Even if you speak Portuguese (most of the locals know no other language), it makes sense to follow the Via Algarviana with a knowledgeable guide. He or she doesn’t only know the tracks but also the inhabitants themselves. I’ve been living in the Algarve hills for over 20 years, by profession I’m a journalist and guide – and I’ve got lots of true and not-so-true anecdotes to share with you.

Something else that’s integral to trail-walking is the logistics. These days, walkers no longer perish from lack of sustenance like they used to, because every couple of kilometres/miles there’s some kind of café alongside the route. During the fourth century, the Via Algarviana was followed by pilgrims on their way to Cape St. Vincent to pay homage to the saint. Portugal has been a member of the European Union since 1986, and is consequently very well funded. Today you no longer need to ask if there’s somewhere to eat and sleep nearby, but where the very best food and accommodation is to be found. These days, to the satisfaction of most people, answers to all these questions are available. There’s no longer any need to sleep under the stars, for example, and you don’t have to walk with a tent and sleeping bag in your backpack. There are private guesthouses with double or single beds and good mattresses. And to eat, there’s not just enough to fill your grumbling stomach, but a wide choice of homemade local dishes that I’ll be happy to introduce you to. And there’ll be fresh bread with cheese, spicy sausage, jam or honey almost every morning. Naturally we’ll walk from hostelry to hostelry along the Via Algarviana – and at least once en route I’ll be cooking for you myself.

Walking the Via Algarviana is fantastic in the Spring! Once the almond, the orange and the mimosa trees have blossomed, after the abundant Winter rains, the Spring sunshine bathes the landscape in a sea of Cistus roses; aromatic herbs perfume the air; a gentle breeze blows. We’ll catch sight of eagles, otters, foxes, martens, and other wild animals. We’ll walk in cork oak forests; we’ll rest beneath stone pines. And if you like, you can plant your very own tree and make your mark on our reforestation project. Easter is the perfect time to discover the Via Algarviana and the experience will be unforgettable.

A piece of advice: it’s not a good idea to walk the Via Algarviana during the Summer months. The strong sun will scorch your skull. And that season isn’t only too hot - it’s too dry, very dusty and there’s always an enormous risk of bush or forest fires. Go with a friend, or better still: a guide.

Via Algarviana Next Guided Walks
	• April 2011, from Saturday 2nd to Saturday 16th • Octobre 2011, from Saturday 15th to Saturday 29th
Day	Weekday
1	Saturday	Arrival
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
2	Sunday	Hiking  Alcoutim › Balurcos de Baixo	24,5 Km	171m	8
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
3	Monday	Hiking  Balurcos de Baixo › Furnazinhas	13,5 Km	210m	3½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
4	Tuesday	Hiking  Furnazinhas › Vaqueiros	23,1 Km	191m	6
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
5	Wednesday	Hiking  Vaqueiros › Cachopo › Feiteiras	33,0 Km	501m	7½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
6	Thursday	Hiking  Feiteira › Barranco do Velho	21,5 Km	522m	5½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
7	Friday	Hiking  Barranco do Velho › Salir	16,4 Km	296m	3½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
8	Saturday	Hiking  Salir › Alte	18,0 Km	212m	4½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
9	Sunday	Hiking  Alte › São Bartolomeu de Messines › Silves	41,6 Km	221m	9
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
10	Monday	Hiking  Silves › Caldas de Monchique	26,0 Km	301m	6½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
11	Tuesday	Hiking  Caldas de Monchique › Picota › Fóia › Marmelete	26,5 Km	851m	8½
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
12	Wednesday	Hiking  Marmelete › Barão de São João	35,0 Km	133m	9
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
13	Thursday	Hiking  Barão de São João › Vila do Bispo	24,4 Km	177m	6
Day	Weekday	Route	Distance	Altitude	Duration
14	Friday	Hiking  Vila do Bispo › Cabo São Vicente	19,6 Km	79m	4
Day	Weekday
15	Saturday	Departure

Essential things to take on the Via Algarviana: waterproof walking boots, a strong backpack containing rainwear, a sunhat, sunglasses, sun cream, walking poles or a staff, a bottle of water, a torch, a compass, a mobile phone with solar-powered battery charger, a first aid kit, a swimsuit, a towel, toiletries, sandals, a penknife, and a whistle.